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Frijoles especiales

If you are heading to South Padre Island, you will drive through Brownsville. This Valley town, which sits on both the Gulf of Mexico and the Mexican-American border forged by the Rio Grande River, isn’t often mentioned as a destination. Though that’s a pity, as it’s not only home to some incredible architecture and natural beauty, it’s also a spot for delicious food.

The first time I visited, I was scouting for my queso book. While chile con queso doesn’t have a huge presence in the town, the taquerias are abundant. And one dish . . .

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