Green chile chowder
“We know people will buy the book for this recipe alone,” was noted on an entry for a green-chile chowder in Seasoned with Sun, the El Paso Junior League’s cookbook. Despite such high praise, this green chowder recipe—Maxon’s green chile chowder, to be exact—was not the reason why I had bought the book. Nope, I had purchased this cookbook to satisfy a burgeoning obsession with Junior League cookbooks, which began when I was home at Christmas.
My mom had put me on kitchen duty, but in between chopping onions and rolling out biscuits, I sat at her table and thumbed through her out-of-print copy of The Star of Texas Cookbook, put out by the Houston Junior League in the early 1980’s. After I finished that book, I moved on to her copy of a Colorado Junior League cookbook and one from Savannah as well. “I’ve never seen you read so much,” said Mom. And while that was probably her polite way of insisting I finish making dinner, I wasn’t deterred in my community-cookbook enthusiasm.
When I returned to New York, a trip to a Bonnie Slotnick’s magical used bookstore in the Village rewarded me with a copy of Fiesta, produced by the Junior League of Corpus Christi. Flavors, the Junior League cookbook of San Antonio came next. I was running out of money, so I had to temporarily pass on cookbooks from Dallas, Wichita Falls and Abilene, but a friend told me about Seasoned with Sun, the Junior League cookbook from El Paso, and so I ignored my impending poverty and groaning bookshelves and made the purchase.
Besides being fascinated with Junior League cookbooks, I’m also enthralled with El Paso. I admit that I don’t know that much about the town but I what I do know is fantastic. The food is outstanding, it has big sky and there are cowboy boot outlets. What more could you ask for?
I love community cookbooks because they tell the story of a place through recipes. Sure, most Junior League cookbooks are chock full of what my grandma calls ladies’ food. But you’ll also find local flavor and history as well. Seasoned With Sun did not disappoint as there were plenty of Tex-Mex favorites sprinkled amidst Junior League classics such as avocado cocktail, asparagus vinaigrette, chicken breasts piquant, and tuna puffs.
So what about this renowned green chile chowder? It seemed to straddle both the border and the Junior League with its tame potato base livened up with jalapenos and green chiles. The first time I made the soup, it was good, but I felt a recipe coming out of that part of the state deserved a bit more punch. The next time I made it I increased the numbers of chiles, threw in some cumin, cilantro, garlic, and lime juice, and lightened it up by omitting a butter and flour roux. And while my changes might upset the El Paso Junior League, I was pleased with the results.
March is a confusing month, as nasty winter insists on sticking around even though milder spring has announced its presence. I find, however, that this soup works well in both situations. Served warm with cheese melted on top, it staves off the cold. And served chilled with a squirt of lime and some tortilla chips, it’s light and refreshing.
While you’re enjoying this soup, perhaps you can help me. I’m looking to add to my collection—what are your favorite community or Junior League cookbooks?
Green chile chowder
Ingredients
- 2 jalapenos
- 4 poblano peppers
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 1 medium yellow onion, diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/2 cup cilantro
- 2 pounds potatoes, peeled and diced
- 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
- 1/2 teaspoon cumin
- 1 1/2 cups whole milk
- 1 cup half and half
- 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
- Salt
- Pepper
Instructions
- Cook the poblanos and jalapenos under the broiler for about 5 minutes on each side or until thoroughly blackened. (The jalapenos will probably cook faster so remove them first) Place poblanos in a paper bag, close it and let them steam for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, remove stems from jalapenos and dice.
- After 15 minutes, take the poblanos out of the bag and rub off the skin. Remove seeds and stem and then dice the chiles.
- In a large pot, heat on medium the butter until it’s melted. Add the onions and cook them for 10 minutes or just until they’re about to brown. Throw in the garlic and cook for another minute.
- Add to the pot the chiles, the potatoes, the chicken broth, the cilantro, the cumin, salt and black pepper. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 20 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.
- Scoop out 2 cups of the soup and set aside. Puree the rest of the soup until smooth and then mix the smooth with the chunky. Add the milk and half and half to the soup and cook until warm. Squeeze in the lime juice and serve either warm or chilled, with cheese, tortilla chips and extra cilantro.
Lisa,
You've come to my rescue again! I have been searching for a recipe for a chowder contest in Newport RI this June, and I had been thinking of something with squash and green chilis. this sounds perfect! I might add some form of fish or scallops to keep the New Englanders at the table.
I have enjoyed your blog so much. I have a sailing charter company and would love to treat you and a couple of friends to a day sail on the Hudson River. Anytime!
Thanks again,
Bruce
This looks great — and the ingredient list reminds me of the incredible potato soup served at Sammy's Restaurant in north Fort Worth. I begged for the recipe once and was soundly rebuffed. I'm putting ingredients on the shopping list right now.
The folks here in Colorado make something similar they call Green Chili. I've tried explaining to these people the chili is never green, but they won't listen. It's good nonetheless, but chili it ain't.
I believe a Junior League cookbook (from Arkansas? Memphis?) just won the Gourmand Cookbook award at the Paris book show. Not too shabby. (Nor the green chilis!)
I have been collecting JL cookbooks for years. My favorites are San Francisco a la Carte, San Francisco Encore, Creme de Colorado and Savor the Flavor of Oregon. After reading the other posts, it might be time to add a few new ones to my collection.
Best kept secret: New England Mobile Book Fair (home of Jessica's Biscuit) in Newton, MA, (just outside Boston) usually has a huge collection of Jr. League cookbooks in their warehouse-sized store.