Huevos rancheros, San Antonio style

There is no one way to make huevos rancheros, the Tex-Mex combination of egg, tortilla, and salsa. For instance, in the Big Bend-region town of Alpine, the huevos rancheros are smothered in a green chile-based salsa and layered with refried beans. In El Paso, the sauce is made of melted cheese.

Sometimes, people make a sauce with dried chiles, such as the version I included in my first cookbook, which had guajillo chiles included to give it an earthy depth. Then there are the plates found in San Antonio, which are blanketed in a . . .

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