Green chile chowder
“We know people will buy the book for this recipe alone,” was noted on an entry for a green-chile chowder in Seasoned with Sun, the El Paso Junior League’s cookbook. Despite such high praise, this green chowder recipe—Maxon’s green chile chowder, to be exact—was not the reason why I had bought the book. Nope, I had purchased this cookbook to satisfy a burgeoning obsession with Junior League cookbooks, which began when I was home at Christmas.
My mom had put me on kitchen duty, but in between chopping onions and rolling out biscuits, I sat at her table and thumbed through her out-of-print copy of The Star of Texas Cookbook, put out by the Houston Junior League in the early 1980’s. After I finished that book, I moved on to her copy of a Colorado Junior League cookbook and one from Savannah as well. “I’ve never seen you read so much,” said Mom. And while that was probably her polite way of insisting I finish making dinner, I wasn’t deterred in my community-cookbook enthusiasm.
When I returned to New York, a trip to a Bonnie Slotnick’s magical used bookstore in the Village rewarded me with a copy of Fiesta, produced by the Junior League of Corpus Christi. Flavors, the Junior League cookbook of San Antonio came next. I was running out of money, so I had to temporarily pass on cookbooks from Dallas, Wichita Falls and Abilene, but a friend told me about Seasoned with Sun, the Junior League cookbook from El Paso, and so I ignored my impending poverty and groaning bookshelves and made the purchase.
Besides being fascinated with Junior League cookbooks, I’m also enthralled with El Paso. I admit that I don’t know that much about the town but I what I do know is fantastic. The food is outstanding, it has big sky and there are cowboy boot outlets. What more could you ask for?
I love community cookbooks because they tell the story of a place through recipes. Sure, most Junior League cookbooks are chock full of what my grandma calls ladies’ food. But you’ll also find local flavor and history as well. Seasoned With Sun did not disappoint as there were plenty of Tex-Mex favorites sprinkled amidst Junior League classics such as avocado cocktail, asparagus vinaigrette, chicken breasts piquant, and tuna puffs.
So what about this renowned green chile chowder? It seemed to straddle both the border and the Junior League with its tame potato base livened up with jalapenos and green chiles. The first time I made the soup, it was good, but I felt a recipe coming out of that part of the state deserved a bit more punch. The next time I made it I increased the numbers of chiles, threw in some cumin, cilantro, garlic, and lime juice, and lightened it up by omitting a butter and flour roux. And while my changes might upset the El Paso Junior League, I was pleased with the results.
March is a confusing month, as nasty winter insists on sticking around even though milder spring has announced its presence. I find, however, that this soup works well in both situations. Served warm with cheese melted on top, it staves off the cold. And served chilled with a squirt of lime and some tortilla chips, it’s light and refreshing.
While you’re enjoying this soup, perhaps you can help me. I’m looking to add to my collection—what are your favorite community or Junior League cookbooks?
Green chile chowder
Ingredients
- 2 jalapenos
- 4 poblano peppers
- 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 1 medium yellow onion, diced
- 2 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/2 cup cilantro
- 2 pounds potatoes, peeled and diced
- 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
- 1/2 teaspoon cumin
- 1 1/2 cups whole milk
- 1 cup half and half
- 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
- Salt
- Pepper
Instructions
- Cook the poblanos and jalapenos under the broiler for about 5 minutes on each side or until thoroughly blackened. (The jalapenos will probably cook faster so remove them first) Place poblanos in a paper bag, close it and let them steam for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, remove stems from jalapenos and dice.
- After 15 minutes, take the poblanos out of the bag and rub off the skin. Remove seeds and stem and then dice the chiles.
- In a large pot, heat on medium the butter until it’s melted. Add the onions and cook them for 10 minutes or just until they’re about to brown. Throw in the garlic and cook for another minute.
- Add to the pot the chiles, the potatoes, the chicken broth, the cilantro, the cumin, salt and black pepper. Bring to a boil and then simmer for 20 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.
- Scoop out 2 cups of the soup and set aside. Puree the rest of the soup until smooth and then mix the smooth with the chunky. Add the milk and half and half to the soup and cook until warm. Squeeze in the lime juice and serve either warm or chilled, with cheese, tortilla chips and extra cilantro.
I, too, LOVE Junior League cookbooks and I wholeheartedly agree with those who recommend Houston JL "Stop and Smell the Rosemary"
I received their new one "Peace Meals" as a Christmas present and I am loving it, as well!
OH, and I almost forgot the Denver JL's book "Colorado Colore". There's a recipe for pasta with carmelized shallots and blue cheese that is one of my go-to's!
Dragna–I hear that one is incredible! It's next on my list.
Lucie–I always wanted to live above a bookstore, and to live above Bonnie's must have been a treat!
Susan–I'm very excited about Flavors as well–such a treasure!
Amy–Are you talking about Charleston Receipts? I believe that's the oldest Junior League cookbook–a classic
James–Howdy! And I'm so happy you and your family is enjoying the site!
Brenda–It's the 1989 edition.
Staci–Stop and Smell the Rosemary is worth buying for the title alone!
Racingyogagirl–I wouldn't expect anything less from New Orleans!
Anon–I haven't heard of River Road or Traditions–I'll definitely check them out!
Mike–A JL cookbook called La Pinata? I'm sold!
Molly–This is a great way to use up some milk. You should make cheese with it as well! And crackers are wonderful with Ranch Style Beans, I agree.
Tallmisto–I think that's the one my mom has, but I'll have to check.
Linda–Why thank you!
Cara–I would trust any community cookbook from Louisiana!
Jaye–I can only imagine how wonderful Tea Time at the Masters is. Hooray for pimento cheese!
KnittingReader–So many votes for Flavors–i need to start cooking with it!
Tejasjeff–I had no idea!
Natalie–My grandma lives in McKinney, I wonder if she has the Plano one? I'll have to ask her about it. Thanks for the tip!
Kalyn–I agree, they're definite keepers! And thank you!
Janus–I love the title of that one, though I've never heard of the group. I gather the recipes call for other ingredients besides eggs?
lljljljj–Wow! I can't believe you ended up living next door to her. And one of the things I love about Junior League and community cookbooks–the back story behind each recipe.
Manderley–I bet the Lafayette JL cookbook is terrific–and I love the name!
Matt–What a strange place to find it.
Esmer–Peace Meals, Stop and Smell the Rosemary and Colorado Colore are going on my list. That pasta sounds heavenly!
DEFINITELY get the McAllen Junior League cookbook — "La Pinata." It dates from the very early 80s or late 70s, and it's got some fantastic recipes. They did a second book that is good, but not as fantastic as the first. There is an entire Mexican food section, and it is quite full. Also a lot of very decent game recipes.
In a town of 100,000 or so, that book has sold close to a million copies — if that tells you anything. 😉
I just looked and I also have the 1989 edition =) I got it as a wedding present. The other edition is 1974 and it was my Grandfathers.