What’s in your English pea salad?
I was sitting with a group of food writers from the Northeast the other day (I would playfully call them Yankees, but as it was gently pointed out to me, they wouldn’t call me a Confederate so I should be careful with my adjectives). They asked me if there was something that we Texans eat that I was reluctant to write about and I didn’t blink before I said, “Pea salad.” (If you’re a fan, please do not take offense. Instead, bear with me. )
We didn’t often eat pea salad often in my family and for me it was always the strange-looking dish holding court next to the lime congeal at the church potluck or in the cafeteria line.
I can guarantee that you would never see it here in New York City, and, well, because it’s been out of sight, it’s also been out mind. (I know, I know—how could I forget about pea salad? I hear it all the time: I’ve lived away from Texas too long!) But when a reader requested that I post a recipe, saying, “We always eat it around Easter,” I figured it was time.
Pea salad is a Texan classic and yet it changes as much as the weather on a spring day.
Take my grandmother’s recipe: she makes hers with peas, cheddar, mayonnaise, and pickles. But I also know people who make their pea salad with boiled eggs and bacon, not to mention those that make theirs with pickled onions and pimento cheese. And let’s not forget those other weighty questions: Do you go with canned Le Sueur peas, frozen or fresh? Do you shred or cube your cheese? Do you add other vegetables such as carrots or celery? And how do you feel about the inclusion of macaroni or almonds?
As you can see, pea salad is the font of much debate and deliberation. .
I decided that in order to decide how best to eat it, I’d just have to make my own.
I love peas and bacon together, so that was simple decision. And since I’m the kind of person that eats mayonnaise by the spoonful, I was definitely including that. When it came time to add cheese, however, I was flummoxed. Of course, in Texas you add yellow cheese—most typically Longhorn cheddar (unless you prefer Velveeta or American). But the combination of peas and bacon reminds me of northern Italian food, and so I thought that Parmesan shavings would be tasty.
In the end, however, tradition won out over experimentation. I realized that pea salad can be found all over the place, but it’s the yellow cheese, preferably Longhorn cheddar, that marks pea salad as Texas pea salad (that is, unless you make it with hard-boiled eggs, but I’m just confusing myself).
And while I couldn’t remember the last time I had this classic Southern side dish, when I took my first bite I was pleasantly surprised as it was soft, sweet, crunchy and spicy. It was good. I wouldn’t try to overanalyze pea salad—if you dissect its parts you’ll probably be put off of it. But when you add all the ingredients together, you have a refreshingly cool spring salad that is certain to please most everyone.
So, what do you put in your pea salad?
English pea salad
Ingredients
- 4 cups English peas, fresh or frozen
- 4 pieces bacon, cooked and crumbled
- 1/2 small yellow onion, finely diced
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
- 2 ounces sharp cheddar, cubed
- 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
- 1/4 cup mayonnaise
- Pinch cayenne pepper
- Salt
Instructions
- Rinse the peas (do not cook, either fresh or frozen) and then mix with the bacon, onion, mint, cheddar, white wine vinegar, mayonnaise, and cayenne. Add salt to taste. Chill for at least 4 hours before serving.
Yum. Frozen peas, please, for mine. I will tell you that my mother always said that bacon was the way “Yankees” made it. But heck, I’ve had it at too many church socials with bacon for Mother’s opinion to count anymore. And the mint? A divine touch.
i’ve never heard of “pea salad” being from new zealand and all…. but I’m of the school throw everything you can in…. and hopefully it will work out alright!
Kelly O–I can’t remember the last time I went to the Collin Street Bakery–must go next time I’m home. I just love those lacy pecan cookies.
Jessica–Interesting–I’ll have to try that.
Texann–You’re welcome! I sometimes make it with diced ham instead of bacon, too. And your artichoke salad sure does sound tasty.
Ellis–Roast beef spread sounds familiar–it’s like deviled ham but with beef, right?
Pat–Mayo and cooked potatoes was very popular with my senora when I lived in Spain.
Idyll Hands–How strange–it’s pretty common in N. Texas.
Knitalot–Ha! That’s quite all right–it’s not for everyone!
Bee–It’s the best with freshly picked peas.
Nikki–See, I don’t like the boiled eggs in mine, but they’re very popular. And this salad is a wonderful way to use up some extras.
Janna–I need to try this 7-layer salad!
Lulu–Happy to help! Enjoy!
The Greasy Spoon–I think that the English would devour this!
Robin–You’re very welcome! And I hear you about too-sweet barbecue–drives me nuts when all you can taste is sugar and not smoke.
RecipeGirl–Oh! Good to know that you can find it up North!
Wencked–Dill relish–now that’s a simple way to pack it with lots of flavor.
Jumper–I also love black-eyed pea salad. There should be a recipe somewhere around here for it. And Longhorn refers to the half-moon shape, not the provenance of the milk!
Mrs. Albrecht–Your Wisconsin boy should love it!
Krista–I would use frozen peas over canned peas.
Maris–It’s wonderfully cool and crisp so indeed perfect for warm weather.
KS–Tomato–I’ll have to add some when we those are in season.
Kevin–Feta would be very classy.
Doris–You’re very welcome. I’m sorry to hear about your loss.
Kate–Yep, bacon’s salty crunchiness is awesome. And it’s not particularly Texan, I reckon, but definitely Southern.
AT–Girl, you’re missing out!
Celeste–It’s definitely Southern. If you can eat pimento cheese, you’d probably like this, too.
Michael–It’s surprising how well everything goes together, isn’t it?
Paula–Gotta have the cayenne!
Starwoodgal–Thanks for sharing!
Anon–I agree, it’s a little different with canned peas.
Mark–I love the mint in it as well since it goes so well with peas. Thanks!
thecatskillkiwi –That’s a good school to be in!
I’m a tranplanted Louisiana Gal. I’ve lived in Arkansas for the better part of the last 30 years. My grandmother’s English Pea Salad is a family fave!
That looks really good. o_O I would totally use fresh peas. Amazing summer food. (We have good cheddar up here in Canada, too…)
Now why do you call them English peas? Is that a Texas thing? The only qualifier I’ve ever heard put on that kind of pea is “green”. Other peas get adjectives — chick, split, black-eyed — but the default peas are the green ones.