Main dish Tex-Mex

Black bean enfrijoladas

Enfrijoladas DSC 0370

One of my favorite pastimes is reading restaurant menus. I first started doing this when I lived in New York and wanted to see what my favorite spots in Texas were serving. Though over the years, whenever I read historical menus from the early to mid-20th century, it’s also become an enlightening way to see how Texan cuisine has evolved.

One aspect of Texan cuisine that has changed is the influence of Mexican foodways on classic Tex-Mex. For instance, take the popular border and Mexico City dish known as enfrijoladas. The name refers to frijoles, which translates . . .

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