Chilaquiles toluqueños (chilaquiles with chorizo salsa)
The other day I participated in a conversation about the difference between chilaquiles and migas. As I’ve noted before, the two are often conflated because each uses fried corn tortillas….
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Country sausage ranchero tacos
The first time you order a country ranchero taco in San Antonio, if you’re from North Texas, you may be surprised to discover that the country, which refers to sausage,…
Pickled jalapeño deviled eggs
A reader once wrote and asked: “My concern is deviled egg recipes that don’t contain vinegar, including yours. My mom taught me that to be deviled, the yolk mix must…
Roast lamb with jalapeño yogurt sauce
It’s said that Texans don’t usually eat lamb. This isn’t true, of course, as the first time I had lamb was in a small East Texas town. I was still…
Strawberries Romanoff
A couple of years ago, a friend was having her parents over for a spring celebratory dinner. When sharing her menu with me, she sent me a photo of a…
Jalapeño-Cheddar beer bread
My mom is an avid baker, with homemade bread one of her favorite things to prepare. While she’s known for slow-rising loaves made with yeast or her sourdough starter, there…
Fried crawfish tails
Fried seafood has a longstanding tradition along the Gulf Coast. From Beaumont to Brownsville, there are an array of joints close to the water that serve baskets stacked high with…
Crawfish queso fundido
Last week was one of adjustments. With limited electricity, water, heat, and other necessities because of the winter storm across Texas, like most, I had to make do with what…
Red lentils with jalapeños and lime
One of my dearest friends recently gave up eating meat. As we were talking about her new lifestyle, I asked if she was enjoying lots of beans. She replied that…
Cheese enchiladas: the essence of Tex-Mex
Tex-Mex is not Mexican food. That’s right, even though many of the restaurants you see across Texas often call themselves Mexican they’re not. But that’s OK. When Diana Kennedy said…
