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South Texas mole

One fall day, I was making enchiladas at my uncle’s house. As I prepared a tomato-based chile gravy, he suggested that I stir in some cocoa powder. “If you do that,” he said, “the sauce will taste like mole.”

For the uninitiated, mole (pronounced moe-lay, which comes from the Aztec word for sauce, mulli) is a Mexican blend that is crafted from dried chiles, fruits, chocolate, nuts, aromatics, herbs, broth, and spices. When made from scratch, the process can take much time and effort, as you need to rehydrate the chiles and toast the nuts . . .

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