Luby’s liver and onions
I grew up in a frugal household. After witnessing Houston’s boom and bust in the 70’s, my parents were classic penny pinchers—they clipped coupons, insisted I bring my lunch to school, chose the library over a bookstore for fresh books, flew Southwest Airlines, championed the benefits of a free education and encouraged me to earn and save my own money.
And no fancy restaurants for my family—instead you’d find us every Wednesday walking the line at Luby’s. Why? Because on Wednesdays, kids could eat for free.
While Luby’s was never hip, I actually enjoyed my weekly meal there. The possibilities were endless, a 30-foot long buffet of whatever you wanted. You’d start with the Jello, lettuce. and fruit salads, then slide your tray along the rails to the meats (where there was always a whole nicely browned turkey and juicy hunk of prime rib just waiting for carving), then the vegetables (yes, macaroni and cheese is a vegetable), the breads (clover rolls, cornbread, and Texas toast), the desserts (cream pies, cobblers, and more Jello) and the drinks (Coke, milk and iced tea).
I’m stuck in my ways, so I always ordered the same thing, a Lu Ann Platter with fried fish, mashed potatoes, green beans, and a roll. When I became a rebellious teenager, however, I switched from fish to liver and onions and added fruit salad and cornbread to my meal. But it didn’t matter what I ordered, it was always lip-smacking good.
When Luby’s celebrated its 60th anniversary, two books were published to commemorate the occasion. First there was Luby’s Recipes and Memories Cookbook, which has many of its recipes, from lime congeal to the very popular fried fish. It’s now out of print, but (very expensive!) used copies can be found.
There was also a book from the University of Texas Press called House of Plenty: The Rise, Fall, and Revival of Luby’s Cafeterias. This fascinating look at Luby’s is one-part business primer, one-part Texana, one-part food history with a little bit of true crime to keep it spicy.
It’s scintillating reading even if you’ve never been to a cafeteria. Not only do you learn how to treat your staff, you’re also made privy to Luby’s recipes (reprinted as they were originally typed) and discover why Texas allows concealed weapons.
Of course, all this reading doesn’t beat the real deal—making a trip to the local Luby’s—but it satisfied my yearning just enough until the next trip home.
I leave you with Luby’s recipe for liver and onions, my old badge of youthful insurgency. You may be asking, “Why not the fried fish? Everyone loves those perfect rectangles of crunchy, moist, flaky fish!” to which I reply: when was the last time you saw a recipe for fried liver on a blog?
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Luby’s liver and onions
Ingredients
- 2 pounds beef liver, cut into 4 steaks
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 large yellow onion, sliced into 1/4 inch slices
- Kosher salt
- Black pepper
- 1/2 cup whole milk
- 1 large egg
- 2 cups breadcrumbs
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Instructions
- Place the liver in a mixing bowl. Cover with water and let it soak for 15 to 20 minutes.
- In a large cast-iron skillet, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onions and cook, while stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly browned. Remove from the skillet and season to taste with salt.
- In a shallow bowl, whisk together the milk and eggs until well blended. Place the bread crumbs on a plate.
- Rinse the liver under cool running water and then pat dry with paper towels. Lightly season each side with salt and pepper. Dip into the milk mixture, then into the bread crumbs, coating evenly.
- Pour the oil into the skillet that you used for the onions, and turn the heat to medium heat.
- After the oil has heated, add the liver and cook 2 to 3 minutes on each side or until cooked through. Top with the onions.
Oh my goodness.
I have gone on with friends, family, my parents,–anyone who will listen to me,–that your blog never fails to conjure up the things I remember most about my childhood. And also about the things I love most about food. First It was Rotel, then tamales, then Mi Tierra, and just when I thought you couldn’t take me back any farther you just did.
Wow wow wow.
I’m calling my parents to read this IMMEDIATELY. And then I shall sit back and think about sliding my tray down that long, long line, smiling and telling the older women behind the counter that I’d like Texas toast and extra gravy on my potatoes.
BRAVO!
Oh, and as far as favorites, you mentioned everything I have possibly ever loved at that Cafeteria. It was the only time I was allowed to load up on carbs and sides without my folks ever fussin’.
Yay! A recipe for liver and onions on a blog! Bring offal back, it’s so delicious and underrated…I’m serious.
Too cool! My husband (though a native New Yorker) lived in Austin before he met me and still talks of Luby’s fondly. Thanks for the tips!
Matt–Thanks, you’re so sweet. I’m glad I’m making someone happy (and hungry)! Isn’t it funny how going to Luby’s was considered healthy eating? Man, I could go for a big, thick, buttery slice of Texas toast right now.
Nosheteria–Awful good that offal, yes indeed!
Rachel–You’re welcome! I’m going to experiment with the fish recipe and will post the results soon.
Mmm, that sounds really good. It reminds me of my parents taking us to Sizzler’s as a kid (coupons for free buffet dinner with purchase of drink, and the drink is like, $1 or something). My bf used to mock Sizzlers (without my having ever mentioned these childhood trips to him) to no end until finally, about 6 or 7 months ago, we happened to walk by the very same one my parents used to take us, and I dragged him in. He no longer mocks, but instead understands why I loved it (variety! decent “garbage” food, with something for everyone, and they happened to be having a brunch special that day so it was super cheap with an egg/omelet station as well). I love your description of Luby’s- I bet there’s none around here though *sad face*
PS You brought back other fond but more recent memories with two words: Texas toast. A few years ago, I become obsessed with it, going places that served it and buying the *shudder* frozen kind in grocery stores. Mmm, unless that’s fake Texas toast (essentially really thick, grilled garlic toast?)… I think I want some now!