Luby’s liver and onions
I grew up in a frugal household. After witnessing Houston’s boom and bust in the 70’s, my parents were classic penny pinchers—they clipped coupons, insisted I bring my lunch to school, chose the library over a bookstore for fresh books, flew Southwest Airlines, championed the benefits of a free education and encouraged me to earn and save my own money.
And no fancy restaurants for my family—instead you’d find us every Wednesday walking the line at Luby’s. Why? Because on Wednesdays, kids could eat for free.
While Luby’s was never hip, I actually enjoyed my weekly meal there. The possibilities were endless, a 30-foot long buffet of whatever you wanted. You’d start with the Jello, lettuce. and fruit salads, then slide your tray along the rails to the meats (where there was always a whole nicely browned turkey and juicy hunk of prime rib just waiting for carving), then the vegetables (yes, macaroni and cheese is a vegetable), the breads (clover rolls, cornbread, and Texas toast), the desserts (cream pies, cobblers, and more Jello) and the drinks (Coke, milk and iced tea).
I’m stuck in my ways, so I always ordered the same thing, a Lu Ann Platter with fried fish, mashed potatoes, green beans, and a roll. When I became a rebellious teenager, however, I switched from fish to liver and onions and added fruit salad and cornbread to my meal. But it didn’t matter what I ordered, it was always lip-smacking good.
When Luby’s celebrated its 60th anniversary, two books were published to commemorate the occasion. First there was Luby’s Recipes and Memories Cookbook, which has many of its recipes, from lime congeal to the very popular fried fish. It’s now out of print, but (very expensive!) used copies can be found.
There was also a book from the University of Texas Press called House of Plenty: The Rise, Fall, and Revival of Luby’s Cafeterias. This fascinating look at Luby’s is one-part business primer, one-part Texana, one-part food history with a little bit of true crime to keep it spicy.
It’s scintillating reading even if you’ve never been to a cafeteria. Not only do you learn how to treat your staff, you’re also made privy to Luby’s recipes (reprinted as they were originally typed) and discover why Texas allows concealed weapons.
Of course, all this reading doesn’t beat the real deal—making a trip to the local Luby’s—but it satisfied my yearning just enough until the next trip home.
I leave you with Luby’s recipe for liver and onions, my old badge of youthful insurgency. You may be asking, “Why not the fried fish? Everyone loves those perfect rectangles of crunchy, moist, flaky fish!” to which I reply: when was the last time you saw a recipe for fried liver on a blog?
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Luby’s liver and onions
Ingredients
- 2 pounds beef liver, cut into 4 steaks
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 large yellow onion, sliced into 1/4 inch slices
- Kosher salt
- Black pepper
- 1/2 cup whole milk
- 1 large egg
- 2 cups breadcrumbs
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Instructions
- Place the liver in a mixing bowl. Cover with water and let it soak for 15 to 20 minutes.
- In a large cast-iron skillet, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onions and cook, while stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly browned. Remove from the skillet and season to taste with salt.
- In a shallow bowl, whisk together the milk and eggs until well blended. Place the bread crumbs on a plate.
- Rinse the liver under cool running water and then pat dry with paper towels. Lightly season each side with salt and pepper. Dip into the milk mixture, then into the bread crumbs, coating evenly.
- Pour the oil into the skillet that you used for the onions, and turn the heat to medium heat.
- After the oil has heated, add the liver and cook 2 to 3 minutes on each side or until cooked through. Top with the onions.
If you’re looking for another replacement for Luby’s Cafeteria, check out the Cleburne Cafeteria, the food is still very much the same as it has been for since 1941. I miss the old Luby’s but this is the next best thing.
Growing up in Lubbock I too have fond memories of Luby’s; and yes I am a homesick Texan living outside Chicago. I always got fish, or their wonderful chicken and the homefries. I do have to say my favorite was Underwoods BBQ, I think they called it a BBQ smorgesboard. My family also frequented Wyatt’s Cafeteria (I have a couple of their pie pans in my cabinet) I also, miss Bedfords Steakhouse (home of the worlds larges salad bar). Does anyone remember when KFC sold BBQ ribs, and had rolls instead of the hockey puck buscuits? I used to like DerWienersnitzel too? I think all those places are gone now, so now when I go home to visit I just head for Sonic and Jack in the Box, and Oh My God “Blue Bell Ice Cream! The area I live outside Chicago has some good pizza, chicken, Chicago Dogs, and prime rib, but it’s all so bland compared to our Texan cooking. None of the stores up here even sell brisket, so I haven’t been able to smoke anything but ribs. I’ve been vowing to drive home just to bring back some supplies; I just don’t want to deal with trying to keep it from spoiling (17 hour drive on a good day).
Glad to speak to some fellow Texans, Happy Holidays!
Does anyone remember,Wyatts made a dessert but it was on the end where the salads were,it was white frozen,it had pineapple,cherries.Loved it!!!Only had it once..Does anyone know where there might be,I would love most of the recipes from them,I got the original recipe from them on the eggplant.On little note cards with the name on it.They also made a wonderful Butterscotch Pecan Pie..Helppppp!!!!Thanks
Anonymous… That sounds like a type of frozen waldorf salad. I don’t know if all waldorf salads are frozen though. If anyone has Wyatt’s Chocolate cake recipe let me know. That was the best.
I grew up in Lubbock so I'm a huge fan of Furr's however when we went to the metroplex to visit family we would always head over to Luby's. Does anyone remember coming in early from playing outside so we could take a shower and then put on "good" clothes or dressing for supper.
Last week the Dallas Morning News reported that the Pappas brothers (the restaurant family that bought Luby's) are closing 10 of the cafeterias in Dallas/Ft Worth. Not surprised – when I ate at the one in Plano a regular plae of roast beef, two vegetables, roll, pie and iced tea was $12.00.