Luby’s liver and onions
I grew up in a frugal household. After witnessing Houston’s boom and bust in the 70’s, my parents were classic penny pinchers—they clipped coupons, insisted I bring my lunch to school, chose the library over a bookstore for fresh books, flew Southwest Airlines, championed the benefits of a free education and encouraged me to earn and save my own money.
And no fancy restaurants for my family—instead you’d find us every Wednesday walking the line at Luby’s. Why? Because on Wednesdays, kids could eat for free.
While Luby’s was never hip, I actually enjoyed my weekly meal there. The possibilities were endless, a 30-foot long buffet of whatever you wanted. You’d start with the Jello, lettuce. and fruit salads, then slide your tray along the rails to the meats (where there was always a whole nicely browned turkey and juicy hunk of prime rib just waiting for carving), then the vegetables (yes, macaroni and cheese is a vegetable), the breads (clover rolls, cornbread, and Texas toast), the desserts (cream pies, cobblers, and more Jello) and the drinks (Coke, milk and iced tea).
I’m stuck in my ways, so I always ordered the same thing, a Lu Ann Platter with fried fish, mashed potatoes, green beans, and a roll. When I became a rebellious teenager, however, I switched from fish to liver and onions and added fruit salad and cornbread to my meal. But it didn’t matter what I ordered, it was always lip-smacking good.
When Luby’s celebrated its 60th anniversary, two books were published to commemorate the occasion. First there was Luby’s Recipes and Memories Cookbook, which has many of its recipes, from lime congeal to the very popular fried fish. It’s now out of print, but (very expensive!) used copies can be found.
There was also a book from the University of Texas Press called House of Plenty: The Rise, Fall, and Revival of Luby’s Cafeterias. This fascinating look at Luby’s is one-part business primer, one-part Texana, one-part food history with a little bit of true crime to keep it spicy.
It’s scintillating reading even if you’ve never been to a cafeteria. Not only do you learn how to treat your staff, you’re also made privy to Luby’s recipes (reprinted as they were originally typed) and discover why Texas allows concealed weapons.
Of course, all this reading doesn’t beat the real deal—making a trip to the local Luby’s—but it satisfied my yearning just enough until the next trip home.
I leave you with Luby’s recipe for liver and onions, my old badge of youthful insurgency. You may be asking, “Why not the fried fish? Everyone loves those perfect rectangles of crunchy, moist, flaky fish!” to which I reply: when was the last time you saw a recipe for fried liver on a blog?
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Luby’s liver and onions
Ingredients
- 2 pounds beef liver, cut into 4 steaks
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 large yellow onion, sliced into 1/4 inch slices
- Kosher salt
- Black pepper
- 1/2 cup whole milk
- 1 large egg
- 2 cups breadcrumbs
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Instructions
- Place the liver in a mixing bowl. Cover with water and let it soak for 15 to 20 minutes.
- In a large cast-iron skillet, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onions and cook, while stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly browned. Remove from the skillet and season to taste with salt.
- In a shallow bowl, whisk together the milk and eggs until well blended. Place the bread crumbs on a plate.
- Rinse the liver under cool running water and then pat dry with paper towels. Lightly season each side with salt and pepper. Dip into the milk mixture, then into the bread crumbs, coating evenly.
- Pour the oil into the skillet that you used for the onions, and turn the heat to medium heat.
- After the oil has heated, add the liver and cook 2 to 3 minutes on each side or until cooked through. Top with the onions.
We didn’t have Luby’s where I lived – we had Piccadilly. Seems I can’t find anyone who ate at a Piccadilly unless they were from a “small” town. Now however, in DFW, I can eat Luby’s whenever I want! I *always” get jello and cornbread and the mac n cheese.
County Clerk–The mall! I haven’t thought about going to the mall in years…
Suburban Housefrau–When I showed the book to my Cajun friend from Opelousas, he said Luby’s was considered big-city dining and his family had to make do with the local Piccadilly. No matter, going to the cafeteria was still considered a big deal.
Cindy in Sacramento, Ca.
Oh my, where have I been? I love your site. I stumbled upon it while looking for a Barbacoa recipe.
I grew up in Texas but now live in California. I loved the Luann platter of breaded beef cutlet.
Not to forget What-A-Burger either.
Luby’s is where I first learned to eat fish as a child, other than fish sticks. I loved that huge piece of fish and how flaky it was. To this day, I still eat fish there every time I go. I know that the green beans are super over-cooked, but they so remind me of the way my grandmother used to cook them to death. I don’t cook Liver and Onions so hubby gets his fix at Luby’s. Thank goodness they do that stuff there UGH!
I prefered the liver and onions at Momma’s Haufbrau in SAT!
I remember eating at Luby’s, my grandmother LOVED that place.. I remember greenbeans.. mushy buttery ones.. I liked them. I understand your nostalgia but I never got it for Luby’s.
I am nostalgic for Dairy Queen (the ones I knew in the midwest) and I miss Taco Cabana and any real tex-mex food.. (nothing like that here in MA, I promise you).
I liked Fudruckers in SAT and also “The Best Little Steak House in Texas” etc.. (I think it was called that).. I wasnt into food much when I lived in SAT other than Bill Miller’s BBQ (to DIE for).. I remember fondly the oyster fest at Saint Mary’s – yummmmmm
I have more memories of food in New Orleans from the time I lived there