Luby’s liver and onions
I grew up in a frugal household. After witnessing Houston’s boom and bust in the 70’s, my parents were classic penny pinchers—they clipped coupons, insisted I bring my lunch to school, chose the library over a bookstore for fresh books, flew Southwest Airlines, championed the benefits of a free education and encouraged me to earn and save my own money.
And no fancy restaurants for my family—instead you’d find us every Wednesday walking the line at Luby’s. Why? Because on Wednesdays, kids could eat for free.
While Luby’s was never hip, I actually enjoyed my weekly meal there. The possibilities were endless, a 30-foot long buffet of whatever you wanted. You’d start with the Jello, lettuce. and fruit salads, then slide your tray along the rails to the meats (where there was always a whole nicely browned turkey and juicy hunk of prime rib just waiting for carving), then the vegetables (yes, macaroni and cheese is a vegetable), the breads (clover rolls, cornbread, and Texas toast), the desserts (cream pies, cobblers, and more Jello) and the drinks (Coke, milk and iced tea).
I’m stuck in my ways, so I always ordered the same thing, a Lu Ann Platter with fried fish, mashed potatoes, green beans, and a roll. When I became a rebellious teenager, however, I switched from fish to liver and onions and added fruit salad and cornbread to my meal. But it didn’t matter what I ordered, it was always lip-smacking good.
When Luby’s celebrated its 60th anniversary, two books were published to commemorate the occasion. First there was Luby’s Recipes and Memories Cookbook, which has many of its recipes, from lime congeal to the very popular fried fish. It’s now out of print, but (very expensive!) used copies can be found.
There was also a book from the University of Texas Press called House of Plenty: The Rise, Fall, and Revival of Luby’s Cafeterias. This fascinating look at Luby’s is one-part business primer, one-part Texana, one-part food history with a little bit of true crime to keep it spicy.
It’s scintillating reading even if you’ve never been to a cafeteria. Not only do you learn how to treat your staff, you’re also made privy to Luby’s recipes (reprinted as they were originally typed) and discover why Texas allows concealed weapons.
Of course, all this reading doesn’t beat the real deal—making a trip to the local Luby’s—but it satisfied my yearning just enough until the next trip home.
I leave you with Luby’s recipe for liver and onions, my old badge of youthful insurgency. You may be asking, “Why not the fried fish? Everyone loves those perfect rectangles of crunchy, moist, flaky fish!” to which I reply: when was the last time you saw a recipe for fried liver on a blog?
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Luby’s liver and onions
Ingredients
- 2 pounds beef liver, cut into 4 steaks
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 large yellow onion, sliced into 1/4 inch slices
- Kosher salt
- Black pepper
- 1/2 cup whole milk
- 1 large egg
- 2 cups breadcrumbs
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Instructions
- Place the liver in a mixing bowl. Cover with water and let it soak for 15 to 20 minutes.
- In a large cast-iron skillet, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onions and cook, while stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly browned. Remove from the skillet and season to taste with salt.
- In a shallow bowl, whisk together the milk and eggs until well blended. Place the bread crumbs on a plate.
- Rinse the liver under cool running water and then pat dry with paper towels. Lightly season each side with salt and pepper. Dip into the milk mixture, then into the bread crumbs, coating evenly.
- Pour the oil into the skillet that you used for the onions, and turn the heat to medium heat.
- After the oil has heated, add the liver and cook 2 to 3 minutes on each side or until cooked through. Top with the onions.
Cindy–Oh yes, I never, ever forget Whataburger.
Vickie–I love the green beans–they’re so overcooked they’re almost bacon-flavored mush. And lucky for your husband Luby’s makes such terrific liver!
Nika–The cafeteria was the only place my grandparents ate out when I was young. The first time I ate with them at a non-cafeteria restaurant was almost disconcerting, it just seemed odd looking at menus with them instead of sliding a tray. As for Taco Cabana, I’ve written letters asking them to PLEASE open on the East Coast.
Growing up in Texas, Sunday lunches at Luby’s were a tradition. When I moved to NYC in the nineties, I was surprised that people considered cafeteria food sub-par. Having eaten at Luby’s all my life, I considered it pretty darn good.
As a child, my standard meal was friend chicken, mashed potatoes, green beans and chocolate milk. My daughter now eats their fried chicken and I can tell you, it tastes the same and smells the same to this day.
Until I was about 13, my parents forbid me to get any dessert other than Jell-O. When I outgrew the Jell-O, my favorite dessert became their Boston Cream Pie (cake). Luby’s makes it with chocolate cake, chocolate icing and white filling. In fact, the only thing it has in common with traditional BCP is the filling.
Anyhow, thanks for the memories!
BTW. I have grown-up friends who swear that the Luby’s Jell-O tastes better than any other.
Thanks for the Luby memories! Funny thing too, Liver & Onions was my Mom’s favorite dish at Luby’s. You’re probably way too young to remember the place, but before Luby’s, my family would drive across town (in Houston)to a cafeteria on Wayside Dr. called The Dinner Bell. I can still picture their sparkling jellos and steaming bowls of mac & cheese.
Anna–According to the book, Luby’s is quite proud that it’s used the same recipes for years. And I think that’s why people love it so much–things taste the same as they did when they were young.
I grew up on the fried fish, too. With mashed taters and mac and cheese. Never, never the LuAnn, though. Texas toast was a must, and egg custard for dessert. It still makes my mouth water. I left Texas for 3 years in Connecticut and 4 in Vegas and really misssed Luby’s. Nothing else even comes close. I am back home in Beaumont now and Luby’s is within walking distance. This is good, because I usually still make the same menu choices as when I was a kid and the exercise is necessary. One change I’ve made voluntarily is that I no longer get chocolate milk with my fish. What was I thinking 40 years ago? Other changes were not by choice. Egg custard seems to be a thing of the past, and I haven’t seen Texas Toast lately, either. Still, I like to mix the tarter sauce and ketchup into a tasty pink goo for the fish. And since my brother-in-law is a Luby’s manager in Houston, Christmas always brings a gift card. In fact, I may take a walk down the street and walk the line tonight. What the heck, it’s already paid for!